Next-generation materials including textile-to-textile recycled
polyester and lab-grown cotton could represent 8%
of the total ?bre market by 2030 – equivalent to approximately
13 million tons, according to a new report from Fashion for
Good and the Boston Consulting Group.Although a vast improvement
from just 1% of the ?bre market today, this growth
may still fall short of industry demand due to mounting regulatory
pressures, climate-related supply chain disruptions and
evolving consumer preferences, the report’s authors observe.
Materials account for 92% of the industry’s total emissions
through their extraction, processing and production, as well as
around 30% of cost of goods sold (COGS). Next-generation
materials present the opportunity to transform the industry’s
environmental impact. Many brands, however, lack guidance
and are unprepared for a material transition and how to drive
adoption to unlock the bene?ts of these new materials.
“The fashion industry stands at a critical juncture where
next-generation materials are no longer just an opportunity
but a business imperative,” said Katrin Ley, managing director
at Fashion for Good. “The opportunity is there, but requires
individual and collective action across demand, cost, and
capital levers to bend the adoption curve.”
The scaling of next-generation materials is hindered by
?nancial, technical and operational obstacles. The report,
Scaling Next-Gen Materials in Fashion: An Executive Guide,
provides a strategic plan to enable industry leaders to navigate
these challenges. It emphasises the need for both individual
brand action and industry-wide collaboration, identifying three
primary levers for scaling next-gen materials and reducing the
cost of transition.Firstly, consistent demand signals stabilise
markets and demand pooling and transition ?nancing can
overcome adoption barriers. Secondly, cost engineering and
process optimisation across the supply chain will unlock
economies of scale, driving affordability and adoption. Finally,
strategic ?nancing aligned with each phase of the adoption
curve will ensure sustained growth and scaling potential.
Successful implementation necessitates the integration of
next-gen materials into core business strategies, aligning with
?nancial goals to secure resources and drive accountability, the
report’s authors say. This requires a comprehensive
understanding of the current material mix, supply chain and
external ecosystem to mitigate risks and capitalise on
opportunities for long-term resilience.
“Scaling next-generation materials isn’t just about
sustainability – it’s about staying relevant in a changing
market,” says Sebastian Boger, of BCG’s Fashion and Luxury
sector. “But these materials won’t scale on their own and
industry-wide action is key. The transition to next-generation
materials is both a challenge and an opportunity for the
fashion industry and brands that act now to embed these
materials into their core operations will win the next era of
fashion.
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